My slyp vlakke/ My edges and your thoughts

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My slyp vlakke/ My edges and your thoughts

Postby marthinus » Sun Feb 13, 2011 11:22 pm

So...here is my process.

1. Put the silicone stone, of my father, in a bench vise at 10-15 degrees (measured as good as I can)

2. Reprofile with a old silicone stone holding the knife horisontal.

3. Dont stop until burr forms

4. Continue process on of 2 and 3 on stones I have with lansky kit from 220 grit up to 1000 grit.

5. Use buffing wheels with green compound

6. Light leather strop with green compound.

Results:

154CM

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S30V

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D2.

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To maintain if edge is damaged.

1. Use lansky turn box kit (or sharpmaker) at 20 degree angle to create a micro bevel

2. buff

3. leather strop.

In the field:

1. 600 Grit diamond paddle

2. Strop on 1200 grit sandpaper

3. Leather strop.


So far this has worked great for me. Your thoughts and comments on my method or improvement strategies are welcome. I have used all these knives on hunting and have found the sharper and more polished an edge is the easier it is to maintain and get to the same sharpness again by removing minimal material (steel). The initial process is time consuming yes.
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Postby Windsong » Mon May 30, 2011 5:05 pm

I have been making knives on and off for ten years. I just want to tell you what i've been using to sharpen my knives with best results. It often happens on oil and waterstones that the surface of the stones get clogged after a few weeks of sharpening and then it feels as if the stone doesnt have the same abrasion than in the beginning(especially so for oil stones and lansky) I clean the stones surface with sunlight liquid soap and hot water, and then the most important, instead of using oil or water again I use sunlight liquid undiluted on the stone as lubricant, cleaning the stone after every knive. I can sharpen knives twice as fast as previously and twice as sharp (and I consider myself a professional knivesharpener. Do yourself a favour and try this, you will be surprised. Just be carefull not to slip, as the sunlight liquid can be slippery. I would like to hear from everyone that tries this!
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Postby CK » Mon May 30, 2011 10:49 pm

Windsong, Thanx for the great tip. I actually thing Warthog supplies a simmilar "fluid" for sharpening, but I am not sure.

Thanx again
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Postby HR81 » Tue May 31, 2011 8:57 am

Im definately going to try this, Ive been practicing sharpening by hand for a while now and have tried many oils but none seem to unclog the stones properly...

Now that were talking about this, what stones do you guys recommend that is available in SA?
Stil soos n landmyn...
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Postby Big D » Tue May 31, 2011 9:02 am

HR81 wrote:Im definately going to try this, Ive been practicing sharpening by hand for a while now and have tried many oils but none seem to unclog the stones properly...

Now that were talking about this, what stones do you guys recommend that is available in SA?


I use the warthog multi edge, one of the best sharpeners I've ever used!!
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Postby Windsong » Tue May 31, 2011 10:20 am

I imported my stones from Japanese Woodworker. I have different grids, the highest is 10 000 which I use to put the final edge on plane blades which I use to build bamboo fishing rods. They are all wetstones. The Arkansas stones is also very good, but get a soft stone and a hard one for finishing off. If I remember correctly, I bought mine from Sharp Edge.
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Postby Windsong » Tue May 31, 2011 10:40 am

Just a few more thoughs on the steps of Marthinus. If you follow his steps you will get a edge that shave hair from your arm. The angle of the edge will determine one of two things. The smaller the angle , the sharper the knive will be but it will dull fast. A little larger angle will not give the same sharpness but the edge will last longer.

Buy the best stones that you can afford, they will outlast your knives and yourself and your son's will be able to use it as well.

I seldom use my lansky or warthog(only for small blades that I can't hold in my hand like the broadhead blades) as I feel I get better results on the larger stones.

Get yourself some of those non-slip rubber mats to put the stones on or fasten them on your workbench in a cradle that allows you to remove it easily
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Postby marthinus » Thu Jun 16, 2011 11:47 pm

Thanks for all the comments and tips!

Windsong wrote:Just a few more thoughs on the steps of Marthinus. If you follow his steps you will get a edge that shave hair from your arm. The angle of the edge will determine one of two things. The smaller the angle , the sharper the knive will be but it will dull fast. A little larger angle will not give the same sharpness but the edge will last longer.

Buy the best stones that you can afford, they will outlast your knives and yourself and your son's will be able to use it as well.

I seldom use my lansky or warthog(only for small blades that I can't hold in my hand like the broadhead blades) as I feel I get better results on the larger stones.

Get yourself some of those non-slip rubber mats to put the stones on or fasten them on your workbench in a cradle that allows you to remove it easily



Just want to mention a few things on the points highlighted.

1. Angle of edge is determined by the chores I do as well as the grind and steel type. 154CM will role easier at 10 degrees per side however something with different properties such as D2 can easily hold a 10 degree angle in my chores without much edge deformation. With some of the more modern steels such as the new Bohler M390 I think one will miss out on some of its properties if one does not put a thinner angle on the edge and leave it at 20 degrees per side (estimate based on some Benchmades from factory I have seen, their grinds can be uneven).

My advice is to experiment a bit to see what one finds works the best for your knives. Personally I like my skinning knives such as the Bone Collector with a thin edge as I want my knives to cut extremely well. Also the low angle makes touching the edge up by applying a micro bevel at 20 degrees per side with a lansky diamond paddle much easier so maintenance in the field is also something I look at.

2. Best stones for modern powdered steels (as well as older steels) IMO is DMT stones but they are very expensive!

3. I fully encourage this but yet again, cant afford but worth the investment!
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Postby HR81 » Fri Jun 17, 2011 12:36 pm

Thanx for all the advice guys...

Ive just bought myself a set of 3 Arkansas stones (Coarse, Medium and fine) While I can manage a half decent edge for a scandi grind on those cheap and nasty stones I hope this will improve it some more. Ive run the edge of my SAK over it a couple of times and can feel that its working so once I get the hang of it there will be no more Lansky in my life.
It feels like such a hassle having to set the entire thing up each time and also for the lansky to be 100% effective each time you have to clamp in exactly the same spot on the knive especially if your blade has some curve to it.

This weekend Ill test the stones on my scandi and see how it goes...

Back to the point, Martinus your post makes alot of sense, I completely agree that a knife used mainly for skinning can use as thin an edge as possible seeing as you are basically performing surgery...
Stil soos n landmyn...
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Postby bow007 » Sat Jun 18, 2011 7:48 pm

Yes... thanks for the advice!
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